Ever since we decided on the team name (Fred & Wilma) for the Carbage run, we have been thinking about how to make the Volvo look more like the Flintstone mobile. We thought about wrapping it in wood grain vinyl wrap, but we couldn’t quite figure out which part should be wrapped exactly and, equally important, what to do with the rest of the car. After some time we decided to wrap the entire car in orange vinyl wrap and make black stains on it (like Fred Flintstone’s outfit). And some printed stickers to pimp it up a little but more on that later.
We never wrapped a car before so we watched quite some YouTube howtos. We ordered some vinyl, a squeegee, borrowed a heat gun and started fiddling around with it. We probably made it more difficult by buying some (relatively) cheap no-name vinyl wrap rather than 3M, VViViD or Avery, but we can’t say for sure because we’ve never tried those.
A few weeks ago, I was browsing on one of those Chinese websites (I’m not mentioning names) when I came across some parking sensors. A set of 4 sensors, controller, display unit and a hole saw to make the necessary holes in the rear bumper would set me back only €15. The ’99 Volvo I bought for the Carbage run didn’t have any parking sensors and I was curious about this set, so I decided to order it.
A few weeks later, the package arrived and I installed it. The hardest part was to find a suitable route for the sensor cables. The rear bumper is filled with this foamy material, which makes it hard to get the cables through. Once that was done, I hooked up the controller to the reverse light wires. In that way, the sensors are only active when the car is in reverse. I put the display unit on the dash (I have yet to find a suitable place for it) and that was basically it. It just worked. So this is going to be a short post about €15 well spent 🙂
The upholstery on the doors of the Volvo was coming off. I mean litteraly disintegrating. The layer of foam between the door panel and the upholstery turned into sticky orange gunk. That needed to be replaced. We removed the door panels, the old upholstery, most of the gunk and replaced it with cowhide I picked up at a local home decor shop. We are team Fred & Wilma after all 🙂
As mentioned earlier, the previous owner had a fender bender. Literally. The front bumper of the car is made out of Tupperware with some metal in it for strength. The plastic part didn’t break. It just bent and bent back afterwards. The shape seemed a bit distorted though, but I figured that was because the metal it was mounted to was bent. The picture shows the metal part with the plastic cover still attached to it.
Replacing the bumper turned out to be more work than expected. Before I could access the bolts that mount the bumper to the chassis of the car I had to remove a cover underneath the car, fixed with quite a number of screws and plastic rivets. On the other hand, getting the metal separated from the plastic was easier than expected. The new bumper turned out to be about 5mm too wide, but that was quickly fixed with an angle grinder.
Unfortunately, the plastic part is still a bit distorted, so it doesn’t completely fit the new metal piece. At least not on the right-hand side of the vehicle. Maybe I can fix that by applying some heat, but that’s something for another day.
Since we’re carbage running as team Fred & Wilma, I figured we needed a soundboard. You know, Fred screaming “Wilmaaaa!”, the distinctive sound of Fred driving off in his car, Wilma laughing, etc. And some of these sounds should be played automatically, for instance when disengaging the handbrake.
I experimented with playing audio directly trough one of the ESP32’s DACs, but for some reason, I could not get the sound quality up to an acceptable level. If you want to take a shot at it: be my guest. You will find some pointers here. I choose a different solution: An external audio decoder board based on the UDA1334A chip. It takes data via I2S and can be bought from Aliexpress, eBay, Banggood, etc.
Here are the most important features:
Voltage regulator, so the board can be powered directly from the car battery (with reverse polarity protection).
Two 12V tolerant digital inputs. These can be used to trigger the playback of a sound if the lights are switched on, the handbrake is disengaged etc.
An analog input. This can be used to connect multiple switches. If every one of these switches has a resistor in series, the software can tell which one is pushed by reading the value of the analog input.
A relay. This may come in handy to power on an external amplifier or to switch on some light effects whenever a sound is being played.
Audio output, of course. In stereo.
ESP8266 MCU. Since the audio decoding is now done by a dedicated chip, there is no need to use the ESP32. The ESP8266 is fast enough. The NodeMCU boards have 4MB of flash memory. 1MB will be used for the software, the rest is available for audio samples.
I have a working proof of concept, I am still working on the software. Currently, the software plays only .WAV files and I would like it to handle .MP3 as well. After all, 3MB of SPIFFS is not a lot if you are using uncompressed audio files.
A few notes on the PCB design:
The NodeMCU dev board appears to be available in two variants. One has a square FTDI chip, the other one has a rectangular one. The footprint used in the design is for the smaller ones with the square FTID chip. The larger one will fit (and the connections are all in the same place), but the electrolytic capacitor is in the way. If you mount the NodeMCU board first, you can mount the capacitor a little bit to the side. As you can see in the picture above, that is what I did, because I didn’t realize the footprint I used was for a differend NodeMCU board than the one I had.
I used a cheap UDA1334A breakout board I got off eBay. It seems to be the same as Adafruit’s “UDA1334 I2S DAC”. The only difference I noticed is the color of the PCB. Both versions should work.
I used the breakout board rather than the chip itself (and some discrete components) in my PCB design to make it easier to assemble.
Just a quick update on the “getting rid of the rust” project. The sills are welded and I replaced one of the wings. I left the welding to a professional by the way. I can stick two pieces of metal together with a welder, but that’s not the same thing 🙂
I decided to replace the front wing with a brand new one. Various manufacturers sell new wings dirt cheap (for like € 40) so it makes no sense to try to repair the old one nor to get one at the local scrapyard. I did have to spray paint it in the right color.
The only thing left to do before it will pass the next inspection is replacing the front bumper (the previous owner had a fender bender) and adjusting the headlights.
It has to bring us from The Netherlands to Ukraine and back.
After a few weeks of searching the web, I found a ’99 Volvo V40 2.0T and bought it. As to be expected from a car that’s both cheap and old, it does indeed need some TLC. Regular maintenance is long overdue, the timing belt needs to be replaced, there is rust all over and a fender bender screwed up the alignment of the headlights. Apart from the maintenance and the timing belt replacement all of these issues would definitely be a problem at the next yearly inspection (which is due February ’20). And then there are some cosmetic issues like the upholstery coming loose/disintegrating, but more on that later.
We also picked a team name: Fred & Wilma. In memory of our cat Pebbles, who died earlier this year at the age of 20.
We decided we’re going to do the Carbage run next year. For those who don’t know: The Carbage run is a 5-day road trip in a car that’s at least 20 years old and is worth € 500 or less.
What does that have to do with making stuff, the topic of this blog?
Probably more than you might think. Apart from the fact that a 20-year-old might need some TLC before I trust it to bring us to Ukraine and back or even pass the yearly inspection, there is the tradition of pimping it up. Most (if not all) contestants will pimp their car with lots of lights, horns and a lot of useless crazy stuff too. There is € 500 to be won in the originality contest. But I’m quite sure most people just pimp their ride because it’s fun. It will definitely lead to some maker projects. Stay tuned!
A couple of years ago I bought a coach and converted it into an RV. After the first season, I parked it and hooked up a battery charger to keep the batteries charged during winter. When the winter was over, I found out that the charger blew a fuse and my batteries were dead. I decided to add some monitoring. I bought a Victron BMV 702 battery monitor (which has both a display and a serial connection), hooked it up to an ESP32 microcontroller and started fiddling around with it. Soon the project exploded. I hooked up a couple of DS18b20 temperature sensors, my Victron MPPT solar charge controller (which has a serial connection as well) and a cheap GPS module I bought off eBay.
ESP32 microcontroller (with built-in WiFi)
USB connection for programming/debugging
Power input (5V)
2 Optically isolated serial inputs (for Victron VE.bus)
1 Non-isolated serial input (for GPS receiver)
“1-wire” I/O (for Dallas DS18B20 temperature sensors)
3 General purpose I/O’s (can be used as digital input or output, analog input, PWM output, RS232. I2C etc)
2 Onboard relays (dry contact outputs)
The software is written in C++ using the Arduino IDE.
Current software features :
Reading and parsing of VE.bus messages from a Victron BMV series battery monitor.
Reading and parsing of VE.bus messages from a Victron MPPT solar charge controller.
Reading various temperatures (inside, outside, hot water, etc.) using up to 10 Dallas DS18B20 1Wire temperature sensors.
Reading and parsing of NMEA data from a GPS receiver.
GPS location upload supports both GeoHash and Lat/Lon.
Reading a resistive tank level sensor.
Measurements can be uploaded to a server using http(s) GET.
Measurements can be written directly to Influxdb. Both http and https are supported.
Switching on the 24V to 12V DC/DC converter to charge the 12V battery if the 24V battery voltage is above a certain level. Switching of if the voltage drops below a certain level. The DC/DC converter is switched by one of the two onboard relays. 24V battery voltage measurements are read from the Victron BMV battery monitor.
Data upload is encrypted (HTTPS).
Over-the-air software updates (OTA). New software images are automatically downloaded on a seperate partition of the flash memory and verified. If verification is successfull, the ESP32 automatically boots the new image. Both upgrades and downgrades are supported.
Most settings (WiFi SSID and password, Influxdb hostname, username/password, what measurements to write etc) are configurable through the web interface.
Settings are stored on a separate partition of the SPI Flash File System (SPIFFS) and are therefore not lost after a software upgrade.
Measurement collection runs in a separate background task.
All measurements can be downloaded directly from the web interface in JSON format.
A portal is available for those who do not want to set up their own server for software updates etc. When using the portal for management, data can still be written to your own Influxdb instance.
None of the items on my todo list require any hardware updates. Luckily the ESP32 is flexible enough to facilitate all the things I thought of after I had the PCBs produced. Until now, at least 🙂 This is mainly because of the built-in matrix switch which allows you to assign any function (like UART RX, UART TX, digital in, digital out, analog in, PWM out) to any IO pin.
Add an extra temperature sensor to measure the temperature of the water heater. No extra I/O’s needed, extra sensors can be connected parallel to the existing ones since every DS18B20 sensor has a unique address.